ABYSSINIAN OIL
Crambe Abyssinica
If there is any oil that has managed to stay under the radar and remain a best kept secret in the industry, it is Abyssinian oil. This oil has so many skin and hair-loving properties and it blows my mind how it has managed to be undiscovered by the masses. I have looked over this particular oil so many times, I was never particularly interested in reading about it because the name just repulsed me in a way and I will say that my pre-judgement has left me in regret for not wanting to know about this oil sooner, because let me tell you this oil is The Kidada Jones (the quiet yet cool ‘it girl’) of oils, but don’t take my word for it, let’s dive in and unpack all the wonderful properties and benefits this oil has to offer.
What is Abyssinian Oil?
Scientific Name: Crambe Abyssinica
Abyssinian oil is an oil produced from the Crambe Abyssinica crop, which is a multibranched annually growing oil seed plant in the Brassicaceae Family. Abyssinian oil is a light and nongreasy oil that is known for having excellent emollient properties. This is due to the high percentage of unsaturated C22 fatty acids, which also makes it highly resistant to oxidation. The seed is coveted for its high levels of cuticle-smooth erucic acid and is mainly used for cosmetic purposes.
The Crambe Abyssinica plant originated in eastern Africa in the Ethiopian Highlands known as Abyssinia, which is where it derived its name. In more recent years it is also cultivated in the Mediterranean region in southern Europe as a spring crop and is alarge for South Africa too. The plant doesn’t require as much water to grow as other plants, making it an environmentally friendly crop to produce and it has a short growing cycle of 90 to 100 days.
The plant produces small and delicate white to yellow flowers that will produce the small seeds that the Abyssinian oil is extracted from. It is a non-GMO- vegetable plant-derived oil with a mild pleasant odor, that is very resistant to heat breakdown and despite its high molecular weight, it remains in liquid form at room temperature.
Technical Information of Abyssinian Oil:
Shelf Life -24-30 months
Colour -Pale Yellow
Comedogenic Rating - zero
Absorption Rate - 1, Fast, leaves no oily residue
Saponification Value-160 - 175
Iodine Value -85-105
Extraction Method- Cold Pressed
Scent-Little to none
Safety- Safe for most
Allergies -None, always do a patch test.
Skin Feel-Rich full and lightweight.
Fatty Acid Composition of Abyssinian Oil
Abyssinian Oil contains an unusual high amount of monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid erucic acid, which can be present up to 60 %, is it probably the highest amount in all vegetable oils. Erucic acid has a very long chain length of C22:1. Erucic acid is used as a slip agent or lubricant, and this characteristic is the reason why it is favored to be used a natural silicone alternative in the cosmetic industry.
Here is a look at the Fatty Acid Profile of Abyssinian Oil:
Palmitic Acid (C16:10)1-5%
Stearic Acid (C18:10) <4
Oleic Acid (C18:1)8-28 %
Linoleic Acid (C18:2)3-15 %
Alpha-Linolenic (C18:3)2-10 %
Arachidic Acid (C20:0) <8
Eicosenoic Acid (C20:1)2-8 %
Behenic Acid (C22:0)2%
Erucic Acid (C22:1)40-60%
Lignoceric Acid (C24:0)1%
Nervonic Acid (C24:1)1%
Gondoic Acid (C20:0)2%
KEY PROPERTIES Vitamin A Full of Antioxidants
Vitamin B1, B2, B6,
Vitamin C Vitamin E137 mg/kg,
B- Sitosterol 52 %
Campesterol22%
Brassicasterol12.3%
What is Abyssinian Oil used for?
Abyssinian Oil is an oil that is chemically closest to our natural oil that is produced by our skin, which means it provides the ultimate natural hydration of any other oil on the market. This oil is a natural more sustainable alternative to synthetic mineral oils often used in manufactured skin and hair products. Due to its unique molecular structure, this oil used for skin and hair cosmetic purposes, and it is important to note that this oil is inedible. It is mostly used for its nourishing, lightweight, non-greasy, hydrating and moisturizing benefits for both skin and hair, which we will unpack in the next section, so read on.
Skin Benefits of Abyssinian Oil
Helps Regulate Overproduction of Sebum
It helps regulate the overproduction of sebum, because its structure is one of the closest to the human skin, which makes it a perfect non-greasy moisturizer especially for those with acne-prone skin.
It will not clog your pores.
Abyssinian Oil makes a great facial oil option for those with oily, acne-prone skin, because of its lightweight, silky feel and for its fast-absorbing non-comedogenic benefits, which is great if you're looking for something that won’t clog your pores.
Anti-Aging and Hydrating
Abyssinian oil is full of excellent moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It absorbs easily into the skin’s epidermal tissue, where it works to smooth wrinkles and nourish dry, dehydrated skin. Most of all it does all of this without leaving behind a greasy residue, like other similar oils.
Moisture Retaining Properties
The oil is highly anti-inflammatory thanks to its Vitamin E contents. It is also abundant in both Linoleic and Linolenic fatty acids, which are helpful in skin regenerating and conditioning. It also acts as an effective barrier for your skin to help retain its moisture and keep it from drying out.
Suitable for all skin types
From very sensitive skin, dry, damaged or oily skin, it is suitable for all skin types and has the ability to dissolve excess sebum, which makes it perfect for acne and blemishes. Due to its abundance in micronutrients, abyssinian oil adds lustre to dull skin, giving it a youthful glowing appearance. It also shields the skin from pollution and other harmful environmental factors because of its protective properties.
Haircare Benefits of Abyssinian Oil
Natural Substitute to Synthetic Anti-Frizz Ingredients
Using a lightweight oil like Abyssinian nourishes strands without suffocating them and has the added benefit of protection from pollution and heat. That is why many people have opted to use Abyssinian oil as a natural replacement to synthetic ingredients, such as silicones that are mainly used in anti-frizz hair products. Silicones are used to coat the hair but do so in a way that does not allow the hair to breathe which, in turn causes more frizz in the long run.
Anti-Fungal to protect hair from harmful fungi
Malassezia is a common fungus on the skin of all humans, which is often the cause of dandruff. Fungus can build up around the hair follicles over time, which causes hair loss and thinning. If you have never thought about fungus on your scalp before, you are not alone, but if you suffer from a flaky and unhealthy scalp, you may not want to reach for something other than your latest dandruff shampoo.
Since Abyssinian oil contains a high level of erucic acid. The oil naturally eradicates any fungus growth on the scalp which causes dandruff, itchy and dry flakes on the scalp. Abyssinian oil can also protect and heal your scalp, increasing its overall health and getting rid of those flakes for good.
Abundant in Vitamins, Minerals and Antioxidants
Abyssinian Oil contains linoleic and linolenic acids, which are important omega fatty acids, responsible for hair growth, maintaining nutrients, skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory properties. This oil is also rich in antioxidants and vitamins such as Vitamin A, B1, B2, B6, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, proteins and minerals which all help promote healthier hair. Using Abyssinian oil daily is like taking a multivitamin for your hair, who wouldn’t like that?
Abyssinian Oils Vs Other Oils for Hair
Abyssinian oil is often compared to Argan oil, because they are both easily absorbed which helps boosts shine and condition even the driest hair. The Crambe Oil has a slightly higher molecular weight and viscosity compared to argan oil because of its high percentage of fatty acids, however Abyssinian oil offers richer nourishment and to both the skin and hair.
Just like Argan oil, Jojoba oil is also often compared to Abyssinian oil, but Abyssinian oil is more hydrating and much stronger than Jojoba Oil due to its high concentration of erucic acid. The erucic acid helps to seal in moisture and protect your strands from dehydration. Abyssinian oil is also lightweight enough to use as a a spray, which makes it easier to evenly distribute throughout your hair. It is very stable against heat breakdown so it can also act as a protectant from heating tools and blow dryers, which makes it perfect for everyday use.
Abyssinian Oil Substitutes
Argan Oil - Argan and Abyssinian oil have an almost similar molecular structure, therefore Argan is often compared with Abyssinian oil.
Broccolli Seed Oil - Broccoli Seed oil is lightweight, natural silicone alternative like Abyssinian oil.
Meadowfoam Oil - Meadowfoam Seed oil locks in moisture, and has anti-frizz properties like The Crambe Seed Oil.
Baobab Oil - An anti-aging, High in Vitamin A oil that is good for all types of skin.
Jojoba Oil - Similar to Abyssinian oil for its nourish and skin hydrating properties.
Abyssinian Oil is not edible!
Abyssinian Oil Side Effects
Studies have shown that Abyssinian oil has little to no side effects, unless a person is sensitive or allergic to it. Always remember to do a patch test before using a new carrier oil.
Environmental Benefits and Sustainability
The plant does not require much water to grow, which helps farmers earn an additional income during rainless seasons, in Africa where it is predominantly grown. It is also a very soil nourishing plant, it does not deplete the soil in between the main crop planting, it feed it instead, which results in richer soil at the end of its growing season. What’s more sustainable than that!
It is clear why Abyssinian Oil has been the beauty industry’s best kept secret; it really has all-star qualities all round. Not only does it have exquisite skin and hair loving properties, but it is also eco-friendly and sustainable and a fairly safe oil to use for all what more can we ask for. Abyssinian Oil is the “It Oil”.
Let us know your thoughts on Abyssinian oil, is it something you would like to test and try? If you have tried it; did you love it, or not really? We would love to hear your thoughts on it.
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