Written By: Zenani Sizane
For most people hair is one of their defining features and as we all know hair has many different functions. It is important to note that as individuals we also have different types of hair and that hair behaves differently for each individual, even if it has similar characteristics, it is not entirely the same. Fortunately, there are categories that hair could fall into and help you determine the type of hair you have and how it behaves and the best ways to care for it.
Some people have curly corkscrew hair, while others have thick, straight shiny hair. Your hair type is primarily based on your hair’s curl pattern and the amount of curl in your hair is determined by your hair follicle. With that being said, in this article, we will use celebrity hairstylist, Andre Walker’s hair type system and charts to help you determine your hair type, how to determine it and the full guide on how to build the best hair care routine for each type.
What are Hair Types?
As mentioned previously, your hair type is primarily based on your hair’s curl pattern and texture and the amount of curl in your hair is determined by your hair follicle. The more oval asymmetrical your follicle is, the curlier your hair will be. The shape of your follicle determines whether your hair is straight, wavy, curly or coily. These types are further divided into subcategories based on the tightness or looseness of the curls and coils.
Your hair texture classification can include one of four numbers and one of three letters. Type 1 is straight, type 2 is wavy, type 3 is curly, and type 4 is coily. When you add the letters - A stands for wide and large, B stands for somewhere in between and C stands for tight and compact and you can determine your hair type, from pin straight to afro-level curly.
It may sound simple but like most attempts to define human characteristics, it is not that simple. Your hair type is determined by genetics, though you can alter your curl pattern with heat or chemicals and sometimes your curl pattern can change somewhat by hormones or medications you are taking, your basic curl pattern is in your DNA.
Figuring out your hair type is not always as easy as one may think, because it is possible to have two or more different hair types on one head. For instance, you could have 4c hair at your crown and 4a at your temple, and also have straight at the root and wavy at the ends and this could make it difficult to find the right products that will work for your hair.
The effectiveness of your daily hair care regimen can be greatly influenced by your hair type. The secret is to know what each type of hair needs in order to properly style and maintain it. The hair type chart is useful in this situation. Apart from the apparent classifications such as straight, wavy, curly, or coily, a hair type chart may have multiple more elements to be taken into account while identifying your individual hair type.
Choosing among all the different hair types can be quite overwhelming, but by the end of this article. You will have the necessary understanding and tools to determine your hair type and build the right hair care routine for your own hair type.
How to determine your hair type
There are many different ways one can determine your hair type, however in this guide, we will look at several factors you need to consider when determining your hair type by curl pattern, hair structure, porosity and scalp moisture: let's have a look.
Step 1- Hair Texture
One factor that is always included in figuring out one's hair type is hair texture. Hair texture generally refers to the natural shape or pattern of your hair strands. If you do not know which category you fall into, you should leave your hair free of products and let it air dry for your next wash day. If it dries straight without a bend or curl, you have straight or type 1 hair.
If it dries with a slight curve or ‘s’ shape, then it is considered wavy/type 2 hair. Now if your hair dries with a defined curl or loop pattern, you have may have of two curl types. Curly/Type 3 curly hair has springy ringlets or corkscrew curl patterns, but it is not as dense as coily hair. Whereas coily hair texture is classified in the type 4/coily category and is often called a natural hair type. It is characterized by dense spirals, zigzag patterns, and shrinkage that occurs when its tight coils go from wet to dry. Type 4 hair type is more prone to breakage and a bit more fragile than others and requires a more specialized hair care routine.
Another thing to consider is that, while two people may both have a defined curl pattern to their tresses, it doesn't mean that they possess the same exact hair, one might have type 3b hair and the other a type 3c hair. This is because hair type charts contain subcategories within each other of the four textures. The classification system within each texture relates to hair structure.
Step 2 - Hair Structure
Hair structure refers specifically to the thickness of the hair, which can affect how well your locks hold different hairstyles and react with certain hair products. Generally, your hair can fall into three categories: fine, medium, and coarse (or thick). For instance, when a hair type chart is used to determine different types of curls, someone with fine hair and loose curls would probably be classified as a type 3a curly hair type, like we mentioned in hair texture.
The simplest way to test whether you have thick or thin hair is to take a single strand from your hairbrush and lay it down on a plain, flat surface. Next to the strand, cut a piece of sewing thread, preferably one with a similar color to your hair, which is about 15 centimeters long. Place it next to your hair strand and if your hair appears thinner than the sewing thread, you have thin hair. If it appears to be thicker than the thread, it is likely you have coarse hair and anything in between them would be medium.
Another way you can tell your hair structure is by how well it holds hairstyles, especially straight and wavy hair, for example, if you have type 2a waves your hair looks and feels delicate and will most likely not hold onto curls very well. Medium hair is relatively easy to style and will hold its shape for a longer period of time. Thick hair on the other hand, can hold curls very well but can often be difficult to style as its typically less supple and can be prone to frizziness more easily.
Step 3 - Hair Porosity
Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb moisture and product. While not as commonly discussed as part of the hair typing system, knowing how porous your hair is can help you determine what kind of styling products you should be putting in your hair.
There is an easy way to assess your hair’s porosity, that is to place a single strand of hair into a bowl of water. If your hair sinks to the bottom, it has high porosity, which means it is absorbing all the moisture. If the strand remains below the surface but floats above the bowl of water, your hair is well-balanced and of normal porosity. Finally, if the strand of hair floats above the surface of the water, your hair has low porosity, which means it doesn’t absorb moisture easily.
Hair with high porosity typically absorbs moisture too quickly because of gaps or tears around the cuticle. Those damaged areas cause it to release moisture at a high rate, making it dry and brittle. For these hair types then, it is best to avoid heat styling and harsh chemical treatments that can cause frizz, dryness and breakage. Instead look for nourishing hair masks, oils, and leave-in treatments that will provide extra moisture and help seal the cuticle to prevent future damage from occurring.
Low porosity hair types, on the other hand, are those where the cuticle lays flat blocking water or moisture from being absorbed into the strands. For these hair types, the biggest concern is typically product build up, especially with thick hair oils and mousses. That is why it's recommended you apply your products while your hair is still damp to help ensure they are more easily absorbed and distributed.
Step 4 - Scalp Moisture
By now we all know that if your scalp is not in a good condition, your hair won't be either. Taking care of your scalp is not a suggestion but compulsory. Determining the condition of your scalp is not the easiest task, as you may experience both an oily scalp and dry, split ends.
To determine how oily your scalp is, we recommend inspecting your hair and scalp on the second day after a wash. If your roots appear flat and greasy, you are most likely dealing with an oily scalp. In that case, it is suggested that you add an oil control product to your hair care routine, to prevent buildup.
However, if you experience flaking, chances are your scalp is dry and in need of a more gentle, hydrating shampoo and conditioner. These are specifically formulated for a dry scalp to ensure that your hair is properly cleaned without being stripped of its natural oils.
In the case that your scalp is both oily and flaky, a mix of symptoms is typically brought on from product and oil buildup due to infrequent or improper washing. In that case, consider adding both the oil control product to your shampoo and conditioner to help limit excessive oil and buildup.
After going through these hair tests, you may discover your hair is a mix of different types - coily but low porous, or medium but extremely oily. Either way, having a thorough understanding of your hair type charts will make for better and easier hair care decisions to help ensure your strands always look and feel their best.
The Different Hair Types
Type 1 - Straight Hair
It is common among women of Asian descent, type 1 hair is very straight and fine, with no hint of wave or curl. People with this texture tend to have shinier hair than those with curly textures because the natural oils in the hair travel straight down from the root to the tip.
Type 1A
Type 1a hair is straight, there is no hint of curl pattern or wave, it is simply straight and flat as a pin. Another defining feature of type 1a is its thinness. Each strand of type 1a hair is extremely fine and therefore, easily falls out or sheds. The benefit of this particular texture is that it tends to effortlessly maintain its shine and it keeps a consistently silky texture.
Unlike curlier locks, type 1a hair doesn’t frizz up after a dip in the pool or on a drizzly or humid day. The downside of pin-straight hair is that it can be very difficult to style any other way, because the hair texture is so thin, it lacks volume and grip required to maintain bouncy or tight curls. Type 1a is also easily weighed down with heavy hair products, especially those with a sticky consistency or ingredients, which creates build up on your scalp.
Type 1B
Though still consistently straight, type 1b hair tends to slightly have more volume and body than type 1a hair. When you inspect a strand of type 1b hair, you can see that there’s a subtle bend or wave to it, though its overall appearance is smooth and straight.
The medium-thick texture of each strand makes it easier to hold different hairstyles and products. But type 1b hair has a thicker texture than type 1a, products can build up and make the hair and scalp greasier. Without the proper tools and products of the brilliant straight texture of type 1b hair can be outshined by oily hair.
Type 1C
Type 1c hair is characterized by its thick, coarse consistency. Though its overall appearance is straight, type 1c has a bit more waviness thanks to the thickness of each strand. Type 1c hair tends to be more voluminous than 1a and 1b. The girth of each strand can create the appearance of an abundant, full head of luxurious hair. That said, it is hard to control dryness and frizz if type 1c hair care is not properly maintained. Using the right type of products and the right styling strategies can make or break type 1c hair.
How to Care for Type 1 hair?
Despite the envy people with silky straight locks get, people with straight hair experience a handful of problems too. Even if you have been blessed with the gift of never having to use a flat iron, straight hair folks struggle to get their hair to resemble any other hair types, like curly hair, no matter how hard you try to keep those ringlets or beachy waves.
Use serums
Blow dryers are rarely a necessity for you. In fact, the fine your natural hair is, the shorter time it takes to dry your hair. Instead of a blow dry, which could risk damaging your fine hair, allow your hair to naturally air dry. But before you do, try adding a lightweight serum to your damp and wet hair.
Treat your with hair masks
A moisturizing hair mask can help with all this, plus nourish, hydrate dull-looking hair. The key to having luscious, voluminous hair is moisture.
The best ingredients for type 1 hair
Light conditioners such as hair gels and hair milks are best for type 1 hair. A light salt spray to build up some volume may be nice, but not too much or you can dry out your hair. Looking for ingredients such as honey, glycerin, panthenol and other humectants will hydrate and retain moisture in the hair without the need for heavy oils and butters which can weigh down your hair and since straight hair is already prone to oiliness, it is best to avoid heavy oils. Dry shampoos are also a great idea, as washing your hair too often can cause your scalp to overproduce oils.
Type 2-Wavy Hair
The type of hair that is neither curly or straight, but somewhere in between. Type 2 hair is famed for its undulating texture that embodies loose waves and well-defined waves. Type 2 hair sits in the sweet spot between pin straight locks and gravity defying corkscrews, which makes it easy to style compared to other curl types.
Still, wavy hair does experience their bad days, just think unwelcome frizz and flatness. Understanding how to take care of your tresses next comes down to identifying the precise type 2 you have.
Type 2A
The natural state of type 2a hair is a gentle, tousled texture. From the roots to around eye level, your hair is fairly straight, and from eye level to the ends, your hair has a loose, undented wave. That said, type 2a hair often lacks volume and is the flattest type of wavy hair. It also gets weighed down easily by heavy styling products, skirting close to the terrain of flat hair. To keep from flattening out that wave, steer clear of oil-based or creamy products.
Type 2a hair also features daintier hair strands compared to types 2b and 2c. In other words, it is easy to comb through and often doesn’t frizz, however, type 2a hair has the most trouble holding its curl definition, which is something to keep in mind. It is recommended that you boost the base with a light mouse or use a gel to define those waves.
Type 2B
Type 2b hair features curlier waves in a more defined ‘s’ shape than type 2a hair. It generally lies flat at the crown before rippling from the midpoint to the hair ends. You can also expect more volume from this curl pattern, making it easier to style into bouncy waves and ringlets. Due to its thicker hair strands and tighter curl definition, more folks with type 2b hair struggle with frizzy hair texture and flyaway. It may require a little more effort to straighten, but it's easy to create that beachy look for a spritz of salt spray.
Type 2C
Type 2c hair is the waviest with clearly defined ‘s’-bends and a few loose ones thrown in for good measure. If you have type 2c hair, your hair can easily be mistaken for curly hair types like 3a,3b and 3c, given how naturally curly this hair type is.
Type 2c hair is often thick and can be prone to frizz in damp weather. Though minimum styling is required to achieve elegant swirls and sleek curls, people with 2c may find it frustrating with alternating between daily straightening, which can damage those beautiful locks and finding ways to enhance and control their waves.
On closer inspection, though, you will see that type 2c does not have the distinctive kinks of ringlets of type 3 hair, which puts it squarely in the type 2c hair category. While you are less likely to encounter flatness-these volumizing curls usually start from the hair roots and deeper waves equal significantly more frizz and flyways. Many lightweight mousses now contain anti-humidity ingredients along with moisture and using a diffuser will help eliminate frizz.
How To Care For Type 2 Hair
Embracing your natural hair type 2 hair can make it fun for you to play with when your hair fibers are healthy and strong. Whether you want the perfect tousled look or dress up with bombshell curls, your type 2 is the hair for it. The trick is to pinpoint where on the type 2 hair spectrum you fit and scope out all the pros and cons to help you gather the right hair products that will help keep it in its full glory.
Use volumizing shampoo and conditioner
Relying on texturizing sprays and styling mousse to fake the appearance of fuller-looking hair is okay from time to time, however, it is crucial to realize that heat styling tools only burden your hair shaft with heat damage, not to mention heavy styling products add unwanted buildup to create even flatter hair. A volumizing shampoo and conditioner can help you take control of any flatness and nourish dry locks.
Indulge in a leave-in conditioner
A moisturizing leave-in conditioner is another must have product in your hair care routine for type 2 hair, it smoothest, hydrates and protects your hair, helping you put your best hair forward. Think of it as a potent duo against heat-induced hair damage and seemingly untamable flyways.
Dab on a hair serum
When tackling dryness in type 2 hair, an extra dose of hydration is always welcome-but make it lightweight. You want to moisturize your hair strands for high-definition gloss without inciting flatness and an oily scalp.
The Best Ingredients For Type 2 Hair
Use lightweight oils such as argan and abyssinian oil to add a touch of moisturizing to wavy hair to prevent any poofiness and frizz. Aloe vera is also a great conditioning agent. Use protein-rich shampoo and conditioners and light conditioners such as hair gels and mousses for the best results.
Type 3-Curly Hair
Curly hair otherwise known as type 3 hair, is the curly, bouncy, bodacious hair in the hair typing system. Curly or Type 3 hair is identified by its unique curl type, your hair is dawned with beautiful voluminous curly defined ‘S’ shape curls. When your hair is not in its its tip-top shape it can be plagued by uncontrollable frizziness and out of control volume, but if you use the hair type system to your advantage and figure out where on the type 3 curly hair spectrum you fall, you can make the most out of your luscious locks, by incorporating the right kind of products and habits to manage your hair to its best capabilities.
Type 3A
Type 3a hair is characterized by well-defined spiral curls that are typically the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk. Although the circumference of 3a curls is wider than that of 3b and 3c hair, it can be difficult to tell the three curl types apart.
Firstly, 3a hair looks like deep waves on wavy hair types when it’s wet. In comparison, damp 3b and 3c hair still retain their ringlets. 3a curls are less voluminous than 3b to 4c hair. This means they are the least prone to frizziness and poofiness of the curly and coily hair types. But that is not to say 3a hair is entirely immune to the external elements. Humidity, pollution, and ultraviolet rays can still push your hair into panic mode.
Type 3a tends to naturally smooth and soft, it is best to work with its natural shape and not overwhelm it with heavy styling products meant for lighter coily hair, instead type 3a hair types should use a simple lightweight leave-in conditioner for hydrating, smoothing and improving damaged looking hair. Look for naturally derived ingredients like chia seed and linseed extract to enhance and define your natural curls.
Another important styling note for 3a is that brushing this type of hair can wreck curl definition and lead to a frizzy mane. It is also important to lose the ponytail, as ponytails cause curls to lose their formation and consistently pushing your hair back into a bun or ponytail will cause your hair to thin and hair loss at your hairline.
Type 3B
Type 3b hair is tighter and thicker than 3a curls.unlike the looser waves of type 3a curls, 3b curls take on a ringlet shape and have a significant amount of volume. Each curl is about as wide as a tapered candlestick. Due to 3b curls being fairly tight and springy, this hair type experiences a lot of shrinkage when it goes from wet to dry.
Since these curls are more defined than that of a looser texture, it takes a lot of time and effort to change their curl pattern. Brushing them out or using a flat iron to straighten them can have the opposite effect, which usually results in hair becoming puffy, frizzy or damaged.
3b is not the most stubborn of the curly type, however type 3b curls can be high maintenance and are better worked with than against. To maintain their characteristic spiral shape, it is best to ditch potentially damaging hair products like straighteners and blow dryers when possible and use shampoos and conditioners that are sulfate free. Many products contain silicones and sulfates, which may temporarily help tame frizz, but in the long run leads to dry hair which causes damage and breakage.
Type 3C
Type 3c hair is the tightest and stiffest of all the curl types. The corkscrew shape is about the width of a pencil. As with 3b hair hair, brushing or straightening type 3c curls is a terrible idea that leads to breakage and damage of your beautiful strands.
Unless you chemically treat your 3c curls to be straight, there is no easy way to achieve a curl-free look. As with all other curl types, it is best to learn to work with your natural hair texture by finding products that give you the moisture and curl definition you need.
Because of the way 3c curls are shaped, natural oils on the scalp have a hard time traveling from the follicle of the hair to the tips of the strands and this can cause the ends of the curls to experience dryness. Use a leave-in conditioner and rake through wet hair with your fingertips. It is also recommended that you rather air-dry your hair instead of blow-drying it.
How To Care For Type 3 Hair
If you have struggled to take care of your luscious curly locks, it could be that you have adopted the wrong haircare routine. It is obvious that you simply cannot treat your type 3 hair like any other hair type. Therefore, it is most important for you to familiarize yourself with the hair typing system, to find out where you fall on the type 3 spectrum, as that is what is going to offer you with the much-needed information in terms of taking care of your specific type 3 curly hair type. Here are a few pointers for your type 3 hair.
Drying
You already know that blow-drying isn’t the healthiest habit for your hair, especially if you have breakage-prone curly locks. But if you are going to use a blow-dryer, the best way of using it is on the lowest heat setting possible and limiting it to once a week or less.
You can also try using a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer to minimize damage. Air drying and carefully wrapping, never rubbing your hair with a microfibre towel or cotton t-shirt to dry is always a better option to minimize heat damage. Also, when gentle drying is accompanied by the right styling products, it can result in beautifully defined curls.
Styling
While it’s tempting to use styling products like stronghold gel or hairspray to keep your curly hair intact, it is said to cause long-term damage and wearing your hair in tight hairstyles or using rubber bands can also cause breakage.
Instead of forcing your hair into positions that are too harsh on its delicate texture, find styles and products - like a deep conditioning hair mask- that bring out the definition and softness of your hair without changing its natural curl pattern. Ingredients like shea butter and avocado oil can help hydrate dry, dull and damaged hair.
Processing
If you have type 3 hair, you don’t have to swear off color altogether. Instead, minimize the frequency of treatments. If you are accustomed to getting multiple treatments at once, like coloring and chemical straightening, opt for just one in order to keep your curly locks healthier.
The Best Ingredients For Type 3 Hair
Since curly hair can be susceptible to frizz and damage, we need stronger moisturizing oils such as avocado oil, jojoba and shea butter which are rich in vitamins, and will help condition the hair. Marshmallow root is also excellent as it provides a conditioning film over the hair to keep it protected. Richer conditioners such as hair lotions are best, as well as protein rich treatments on a weekly basis.
Anyone with type 3 hair, has probably struggled to see it as a blessing at some point in their life, because your hair requires much time and effort in maintaining those beautiful curls, but once you learn to love and appreciate your hair and see the positives of how voluminous your hair is which those with flatter wish for sometimes, it will help you understand and learn the correct way of handling your type 3 hair.
Type 4- Kinky/Coily Hair
This hair type comes with a spongy hair texture that can feel soft and fine or rough and coarse, depending on the individual’s hair thickness. At a glance, type 4 hair appears as a mass of tight coils brimming with vitality. Coily hair and its unique texture and beautifully bouncy hair, that is full of life. Those with coil hair can struggle with a few challenges, like frizz, shrinkage, dryness and breakage.
Type 4A
For type 4a hair, imagine densely packed, ‘s’ pattern coils that are as large as crochet needles. When these spirals are loosened, they can pass for type 3c hair. Due to the distinctive ringlets of type 4a hair, it is difficult for my scalp's natural oils to travel down the length of the hair shaft toward the ends. As with other coily hair types, type 4a mainly struggles with dryness.
Type 4 hair is the most delicate hair type, and you have to be very gentle with it and it needs a lot of moisture. Getting moisture does not mean using only oils. Deep conditioning masques, butters, and creams are good options for preserving hair health.
Avoid hair products with sulfates and parabens, which can strip away your hair’s natural oils. Instead, step up your hydration game with gentle, moisturizing products like a leave-in conditioner. It is also important to keep in mind that type 4a isn't one for straightening unless you desire extreme heat desire and consequently more frizz and damage. The same goes for chemical treatments like hair dyes and bleach. Embracing your type 4 hair as much as possible to protect its delicate strands.
Type 4B
Unlike the S-pattern of type 4a hair, there’s more of a zigzag pattern to type 4b hair. It’s often easier to distinguish type 4b hair from curly hair types, which typically appear as ringlets. Given the sharp angles of type 4b hair strands, which makes it hard for sebum to coat the entire fiber, it's no surprise this kinky hair also encounters a lack of moisture. As you may have experienced firsthand, this leads to parched coils that can easily become frizzy.
Aside from a leave-in conditioner, type 4b hair also benefits from hydrating hair serum that can help keep moisture in. not only will you do look glossy and well-cared for, but these kinds of products will help downplay tangles for less breakage and more defined curls.
One popular technique for defining and accentuating your curls is shingling. Shingling begins with wet hair, gently detangling with your fingertips, using liberal amounts of leave-in conditioner to moisturize and condition, then separate your hair in manageable sections. Work curling cream or gel down the length of each curl, twisting the strands around your index finger as you go.
Type 4C
Type 4c hair features unapologetically bold coils that are sublimely springy. The tightest curl pattern of all hair types, these micro coils are reminiscent of the vintage telephone coils on grandma’s phone.
Due to the ultra-tight curl pattern, type 4c coils interweave easily to form knots and snarls. As it's the most fragile among natural hair types, it's also the most vulnerable to breakage. On top of all, people with type 4c hair also have to grapple with extreme dryness and shrinkage.
It's vital to frequently nourish the hair with rich conditioners, coconut oils are still popular, as are shea butter creams. More people are ditching stripping shampoos for co-washing or rinsing the hair with conditioners instead and in terms of styling, 4c hair is always having a moment because of its versatility.
How To Care For Type 4 Hair
Type 4 hair may be a bit more high-maintenance than other curl types, but responds beautifully to the right routine. The first step is to pinpoint your exact curl type and what it needs, then review your current routine to ensure its all about the coily hair-friendly practices. Eliminate or add products according to your scalp and strands feel. With the right products and technique in place, your type 4 hair will look fuller and livelier in all the best ways possible.
While the frequency of hair washing may differ from person to person, the typical type 4 hair care routine should consist of at least one of the following practices.
Cut out sulfates and parabens
This cannot be stressed enough, stay away from sulfates and parabens, these are oil-stripping ingredients that will desiccate already moisture-starved strands. On wash days, choose a clarifying, sulfate-free shampoo to clear away natural and product buildup. It's a great way to address itchy scalp and greasy roots without drying out your locks.
Detangle with care
The trick with detangling your hair is to go slow and steady, whether you do it with your finger or a beloved wide-tooth comb and detangling brush, whichever the case, in avoiding the painful snags and breakage. If you need extra help, pre-shampoo your hair before detangling.
Dry it the right way
When drying type 4 hair, heat and friction less drying is the best way to go. To speed up the process, use a microfiber towel to gently squeeze out the excess water. Once your hair is no longer dripping wet, let it air-dry. And if you have to use a blow-dryer, always apply a heat protectant beforehand and turn it on the lowest heat setting with an attached diffuser to downplay thermal damage.
The Best Ingredients for Type 4 Hair
The coily hair community is not one for frequent shampooing like the straight-haired folks. Instead, your wash day may happen anywhere from once every three days to once a fortnight, go with whatever works for your coils.
Kinky hair loves rich-emollients that keep it moisturized, smooth and shiny. Try products containing shea butter, cetyl alcohol and castor or argan oil. Protein rich treatments such as weekly masks and rich thick cream conditioners are best for type 4 hair.
It is important to note that whatever you do at night with type 4 hair is just as crucial as what you do during the day, you do not want to wake up with a bad case of bedhead. Start by putting your hair in a protective style like pineapple hair, or Bantu braids or knots, then cover your hairstyle with a silk or satin scarf to protect it from tangles and frizz during slumber and if for extra protection, switch to a satin or silk pillowcase because they are less likely to induce hair-damaging friction and extra benefits for your skin as well.
Ingredients
We have an idea of what's best for the different hair types, but there are so many great ingredients out there that are highly beneficial for the hair. You will want to use ingredients that are already found on the hair and scalp; protein and keratin (Phyto keratin) is also a good choice), nourishing oils, amino acids, minerals and vitamins.
Hydrolyzed proteins
Hydrolyzed proteins help temporarily repair damaged areas in your hair by filling in gaps in the cuticle. Protein also keeps hair hydrated by slowing the loss of water from hair.
Proteins have a weak positive charge, which attracts bonds to the negatively charged hair strands, reducing friction on the cuticle and making hair look more smooth and conditioned. Proteins are considered conditioning agents and work best in acidic conditions, which is great because a lower pH is better for the hair.
Proteins include keratin and collagen. Building blocks for keratin include, biotin, iron, vitamin c, niacinamide and zinc which are all good for the hair.
Humectants
These are hydrating agents such as honey, glycerin, propanediol, hyaluronic acid and panthenol. Panthenol is great for all hair types. Rice water is ultra rich in minerals and vitamins.
Oils
Omega 3, 6 and 9 oils soften and can help detangle your hair, plus they're great for nourishing the scalp. Fortunately, many plant oils contain these omegas. marula, argan and castor oil in particular are good for hair growth and moisture. We want the cuticle cells to lie flat and be sealed, which is why silicones are popular additions in hair care products as they tend to coat the hair strands. Natural silicone alternatives are hemi squalane, Abyssinian seed oil and broccoli seed oil.
Emollients such as butters and fatty alcohols are great at moisturizing hair, particularly type 3 and 4 as mentioned above. All kinds of butters are great, shea butter, mafura butter, cupcake and murumuru butter are particularly good. Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and Ceto stearyl alcohol can also be included for additional richness, slip and emollience
Salicylic acid has benefits for the scalp as it is exfoliating and purifying. If you have scalp issues you may want to try salicylic acid by adding it in your shampoo or treatment.
Botanicals
Clays
Particularly rhassoul and bentonite are great for cleansing and exfoliating hair and scalp.
Surfactants
When it comes to surfactants, non-ionic, amphoteric and cationic ones are best for the hair (no charge, either charge, positive charge). Anionic surfactants (negative charge) can cause dryness, breakage and frizz due to their conflicting electrical charge with that of the hair shaft, so we avoid these.
It is best to choose the glucosides (decyl, coco and lauryl glucosides) and the betaines (cocamidopropyl and lauryl betaine) wherever possible for your hair care products. The glucosides are non-ionic, and the betaines are amphoteric. And of course like with the skin you should also include microbiome friendly ingredients. The scalp is just skin after all and a healthy balanced scalp will lead to healthier hair.
All hair types can benefit from these ingredients.
If you have high porous hair
Highly porous hair is easy to moisturize but it is difficult to stay moisturized, so it always feels dry or frizzy. Highly porous hair is typically damaged in some way. Chemically relaxed or permed, bleached or colored hair that spends a lot of time in chlorinated pools, salt such as the ocean or under the sun and even hair that is brushed a lot. Kinky hair types also tend to be more porous, although this is not always the care.
You need to first hydrate and moisturize it, make sure, you are using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, not one that is clarifying. Use the leave-in, oil and cream method (LOC) to lock in moisture. This entails a leave-in conditioner or mask that contains lots of water and hydrating ingredients, then a hair to seal, then finally a hair cream for ultimate moisturization to really soak in.
If you have low porous hair
Low porosity hair is difficult to moisturize, but tends to hold onto that moisture better once it’s in. First you need to get the hair hydrated and moisturized, by using the liquid, cream and oil method (LCO) to help low porosity hair absorb moisture better. This method differs in the order of the products used: first use water or water-based products, then a hair cream to help that moisture absorb in and then finally a hair oil to seal the moisture in.
If you have very oily hair and scalp
Use purifying and detoxifying products, such as those containing neem, nettle, charcoal, tea tree and peppermint botanicals. Go easy on the daily conditioner but do use a weekly scalp scrub to exfoliate buildup and impurities and keep the scalp clean and you can use a conditioning mask once a week as well if you wash your hair frequently.
If you have dry scalp
Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners containing plant oils to help nourish the scalp. You can use gentle hair masks with hydrating and moisturizing ingredients such as honey, shea butter, aloe vera, irish moss, hibiscus, oils rich in omega-3 and 6, panthenol and even hyaluronic acid. If your dry scalp is from dandruff, use products containing salicylic acid as well as lactic acid.
Conclusion
When it comes to hair types, it is important that you are able to pinpoint your exact type, even if you may have different types in different areas of your hair. This will help you choose the right kind of products for your hair and also help understand how your hair wants to be treated overall. If you cannot figure it out for yourself, visit your nearest hairstylist or hair specialist for a consultation.
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