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TYPE 3B HAIR : THE ULTIMATE HAIR GUIDE TO CARING FOR YOUR TYPE 3B HAIR.

Writer's picture: Zenani SizaneZenani Sizane

WRITTEN BY: Zenani Sizane


Hair is very unique to every individual, no matter what. We all have something unique about our hair and that is what makes us so special as the human race. When it comes to the hair typing system that celebrity hair stylist Andre Walker developed, it is prevalent to understand, even when you fall into the type 3b hair category of the hair typing system, your hair care experiences are not always going to be the same as your other fellow type 3b mates. This guide is just here to guide and help you identify the key factors that make up your type 3b hair, so that you can build the optimal hair care routine for stronger and healthier hair by understanding the basics of what your hair needs.


What is Type 3B Hair

Within the category of type 3 hair, 3b curls are a collection of bouncy ringlets. The circumference of each swirl is roughly that of a sharpie marker. In terms of curl definition, 3b curls are pretty resilient because your curl type straddles the happy medium between 3a and 3c hair, and you will know that because whether your hair is sopping wet in the shower or drenched in moisturizing products, it still retains its spirals. Your 3b hair is known for its ample volume and those with 3b hair rarely worry about their hair being flat. 


How To Identify Type 3B Hair?

Though it is possible that you may have more than one curl type on your head, here are a few ways you can identify type 3b as your dominant hair type. Type 3b hair has a tighter curl pattern than 3A, the ringlets are less S-shaped like that of the wavy hair types and are more like tight springs. 


Type 3b hair is identified by its medium to coarse texture with defined ringlets, and you will find that your hair type is prone to dryness and frizz. Type 3b hair is also marked by its volume and movement. Though your hair may be a handful, knowing how to care for it in a proper manner, can make washdays and styling less tedious and more effective. 


Here’s How to Pinpoint Type 3B Hair:

  • Tight and coily curl pattern

  • Medium to coarse texture

  • Springy curls

  • Voluminous and Bouncy

  • Prone to frizz and dryness

  • Well-defined ringlets


The Challenges Faced with Type 3B Hair

  • Dryness

One major complaint is that this curl pattern leads to intense dryness, due to the tight coils in 3b, scalp sebum has a difficult time sliding down the length of your hair shafts to moisturize the tips. This is the reason why your curls frizz so easily and are prone to breakage. 

  • Coarseness

Compared to type 3a hair fibers, 3b curls have a coarse hair texture, which also contributes to said frizz, because rough cuticles aren’t great at reflecting light, 3b hair may appear dull or lackluster. 

  • Poofiness

Though you may have beautiful voluminous hair, it can sometimes work against you and be a double-edged sword that leads to unmanageable poofiness. Fortunately, with the right kind of products you can combat and overcome the frustration of having those fabulous bouncy curls. 


How To Care for Type 3B Hair

  • Be guided by porosity

If you aren’t sure how porosity works, just remember that low porosity hair loves light weight humectants (water-loving substances) like glycerin and aloe vera. Meanwhile, high porosity hair does well with rich occlusives like coconut oil as they form a physical barrier on the cuticles to block out moisture loss. Lastly, emollients such as argan oil and castor oil are moisturizing, softening agents that work great for all levels of porosity. 

  • Embrace curly girl friendly techniques

The curly girl friendly hair washing methods like co-washing and low-pooing mostly rely on sulfate-free cleansers to avoid drying out your hair.  Committing to a pre-shampoo oil treatment before every shampoo and notes that all deep masks should be used on dry, brittle hair prior to cleansing. It is recommended to layer a rich shampoo and conditioner in a variety of ways to help define curls with minimal to no frizz.

  • Use leave-in hydrators

Leave-in conditioners, serums, hair mists are crucial in defending your tresses against post-shower frizz and dryness. Choose products with a lightweight texture so don’t end up losing one of hair’s best assets-curl definition. Type 3b hair needs more moisture than 3a hair and a good leave-in treatment for hydration can make your natural hair look glossy, soft and well-moisturized. 

  • Dial down excessive heat-use

Minimizing the usage of heat, chemicals, dyes and color treatments in your hair can minimize heat damage. If your hair is seriously distressed already, it is recommended to start using deep conditioners. Deep conditioners are one of the best products for 3b hair as they tackle various woes of type 3b hair and combat all sorts of damage, such as dryness, roughness, breakage and tangles. However, should you decide to use heat on your hair, make sure to use it along with a heat protector to minimize heat damage.


What Are the Best Hairstyles and Cuts for Type 3B Hair

  • The short-stacked bob

This hairstyle gives height to softer 3b curls. This look is ideal for those with finer curls but still want a full voluminous look.

  • Curly Bangs

The curly bangs hairstyle is a super laid-back and cute look, perfect for days when you want to give your hair a break from being tied up. It brings much height and volume and overall shapes and frames your face.


  • The Layered Bob with side parting

The layered bob with side parting hairstyle, is a modern look for the layered haircut and gives you plenty of opportunities to accessorize and play with your hairstyle.

  • Sleek top, low bun

The sleek top, low bun look is an elegant hairstyle that will allow minimal manipulation of the hair and keep your hair tucked away and safe from friction, which ultimately reduces frizz and split ends. Just sleek down your hair and gather it in a low bun. You can accessorize this look with big scrunchies or scarves and headbands. 

  • High pigtails

This cute and easy look can be a nice replacement for the everyday and allow you to play with your hair a bit. Just gather your hair into two ponytails at the crown of your head and let loose the hair at the back. 

  • Claw Clip Bun

Claw clips are just perfect for simple and pretty hairstyles. All you need to do is to gather your curls at the nape of your neck, secure it with a large claw clip, leave out a few strands and you are done and ready to go.

  • Mini knots

This hairstyle may take some time, but it is totally worth it because it leaves your hair in another gorgeous hairstyle once you have unknotted it, think of it as a two in one hairstyle. Part your hair in a few sections, you will decide based on the time you have etc. once sectioned, twist up your hair into knots. Use a lightweight oil to keep your hair shiny and soft.


  • Curly-tail 

A curly tail is just another word for a curly ponytail. This is a classic timeless look for those with type 3b hair. It is perfect for any occasion and doesn’t require much work. Just sleek down your hair in with a leave-in or gel and gather your hair into a ponytail once done, use a curl cream to define your curly-tail. 

  • Double Dutch Braids

Braids are always an excellent choice, if you are looking for a protective yet cute hairstyle. Just part your hair down the middle, then go in with your usual leave-in conditioner to sleek down the hair and keep it hydrated, and proceed with braiding down to the end, and secure with a hair-safe elastic band.

  • Half-up Half-down

If a cute laid back, low maintenance look is what you are going for, then this half-up half down look is the one to go for. Just gather a small section of hair at the crown of your head into a bun or ponytail and then leave the rest of your curls long and loose. 

  • High bun

The high bun style is a perfect look for the days you do not want your hair on your neck, a basic yet stylish summer hairstyle. All you need to do is to just gather your hair at the top of your head and leave out a few strands for a face-framing effect and voila you are done and ready to go.


Best Products for Type 3B Hair

  • Hydrating sulfate-free shampoo

Using the right shampoo for 3b curls is crucial. Due to your tight curl pattern, your hair is prone to dryness and frizz, so it is important to find a shampoo that is not only going to remove excess build up from the scalp, but also a shampoo that is going to hydrate your curls and keep it from drying out even more, that is why it is best for you to stay away from shampoo that contain sulfates, as they tend to dry out your hair.



  • Repairing Conditioner

As mentioned, shampoo tends to dry out your hair, because it main job is to clarify and cleanse the hair and scalp, which can leave your hair feeling moisture less and dry. A right kind of conditioner is the kind that is going to replenish and nourish your hair by putting back moisture in your hair and reviving your hair and scalp. A hydrating conditioner is also crucial for days when you only want to co-wash your hair.



  • Hair Mask

Checking ingredients of your favorite hair care products is a good habit to have, because you want to buy products that are going to introduce the right kind of nutrients your hair needs. The right ingredients in a hair mask must be able to hydrate, nourish and repair any damage that the hair has been vulnerable to and promote healthy hair and growth. 



  • Leave-in Conditioner

Leave-in conditioners for curly hair are there to moisturize the hair and to ensure that the hair doesn’t dry out and prevent frizz. A lightweight leave-in conditioner is perfect for 3b curls, because it will moisturize your and keep it hydrated without weighing your curls down. 



  • Curl-Cream

Keeping your hair bouncy and curls voluminous is probably the goal for every curly type of haired person out there. A curl cream is there to keep your curls alive and thriving but beware of the curl creams that leave excess residue on top of your hair and are too sticky as this will create unnecessary and unwanted build up. 

  • Styling gel

Try to not use this product too frequently, as it creates tension in the hair that leads to breakage and hair thinning when used to manipulate the hair too much. However, styling gels are great products to use when you are going for more sleeker hairstyles and will help you to keep flyaway hairs at bay. 

  • Hair Oil

Hair oils are great agents of hair shine and softness. Hair oil is often discredited for creating build up, however it is just a matter of choosing the right oil for your type. Hair oils are not the same, some are heavy like castor oil and others are lightweight like camellia seed oil. For type 3b hair, you need lightweight oils that are going to nourish your scalp and hair and help right the ends of your hair where your sebum doesn’t reach. Jojoba oil is said to be the oil that resembles the scalp sebum and is recommended for most hair types. 



Ingredients to Look for and Ingredients to Avoid 

Ingredients to look for:

  • Silk Amino Acids

    Silk amino acids help to rebuild extremely damaged hair, and after continued use, they help your hair to grow longer and healthier than before. They also help by making your hair smooth and make it more manageable. Silk amino acids are also effective in retaining moisture and prevent your curls from becoming dry.

  • Aloe Vera

    Aloe Vera is a natural ingredient that has been used for centuries. aloe is used to improve the appearance and texture of curly hair. Aloe vera is also rich in amino acids and proteins, which means it can help moisturize your curly hair. It is also used to help balance pH levels and reduce inflammation and soothe an itchy scalp.

  • Glycerin

    Glycerin is a hydrating, strengthening and conditioning hair care ingredient. Glycerin's moisturizing properties can help keep curly smooth and hydrated due to the fact that it is a humectant, which means it is an ingredient that draws moisture into your hair. Glycerin improves the appearance of your curls by taming frizz and dryness.

  • Sweet Almond Oil

    Sweet almond oil is packed with nutrients that are beneficial for your hair type. It contains antioxidants like Vitamin E and phytosterols which help protect hair from oxidative stress caused by pollution and UV rays. The vitamins and minerals in almond oil also have restorative properties and helps to repair the hair shaft.

  • Avocado Butter

    Avocado butter is a fast-absorbing lightweight natural butter packed with plenty of vital vitamins, minerals and antioxidative properties that help to rejuvenate, repair and restore damaged hair. Avocado are packed with vitamins A, B6, and E which are powerful properties that promote strong healthy hair.

    Ingredients to Avoid:

  • Sulfates

    Due to curly hair's proneness to dryness and frizz, sulfates get a bad reputation because they provide a deep lather by deeply cleansing and removing build-up and impurities. Sulfates makes curly hair even drier which can damage your cuticle and cause breakage.

  • Silicones

    Silicones are not recommended for curly hair because they are known to cause build up and block moisture from penetrating the hair shaft. This causes curly hair to become drier and duller.

  • Parabens

    Mostly used as preservatives for beauty products to help extend shelf life. However, over the recent years, research has shown that parabens have been linked to some health risks such as hormone disruptions. they have also been linked to potentially causing scalp irritations and thus, parabens have become no-go ingredient for your hair.

  • Synthetic Fragrances

    Synthetic fragrances are said to potentially cause scalp irritations and trigger allergies in some people. They may contain a mix of chemicals that are often not listed on the label and pose a health risk for its users.

  • Artificial Coloring

    Artificial coloring is mostly used for aesthetic purposes, but in reality, they may cause a variety of scalp irritations and infections and also weaken your curl structure over time.


Mistakes To Avoid with Your Type 3B Hair

  • Diffuse; Don’t blow dry

Using a hair dryer on your hair directly without a diffuser is a no-go for curly hair. Blow drying your hair with hot air will create frizz and loosen the curl definition of your hair resulting in a straightened frizzy hair look. Using a diffuser will help distribute the air more evenly across the hair. Try using it at a low setting as this will ensure well defined curls with more volume.

  • Don’t sleep with wet hair

Going to sleep with dry hair that is well protected is one very important habit to incorporate into your daily schedule. Going to sleep with wet hair can cause the curl clumps to break and introduce frizz in the hair from all the tossing and turning. Sleeping with wet hair can also introduce fungal infections and give you a cold, so it is important to make sure you dry thoroughly before going to bed. 

  • Don’t over wash your hair

Most hair textures require a clarifying shampoo, which exfoliates the scalp and removes build up once a month. However, over washing your hair can deplete your strands of its nourishing natural oils produced by your scalp and deprive your hair of its necessary moisture. Establishing a consistent hair care routine will help you to know when your hair needs to be washed and also limit you from under washing your hair. The right hair care routine will help to stay on track with what your hair needs.

  • Avoid using regular towels

After washing your hair, use a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt to pat your hair dry. This is a preferred and recommended method for curly hair as it will minimize the risk of frizz and breakage. Incorporating air-drying is also a good method that will help you reduce the risk of heat damage and drying tools on your hair, which in turn preserves your natural curl pattern. 

  • Limit excessive use of heat

Using heat styling tools is one of the biggest culprits of frizzy hair. These tools leave your hair feeling dried and fried by soaking up the moisture and hydration from your scalp and strands. It is recommended to let your hair air-dry as much as possible. There are unique hairstyles and methods to use to dry your hair quickly and naturally. 

  • Never skip trims

Your hair behaves similarly to a growing plant. If you do not trim it, you will probably end up with breakage and split ends, that may halt your hair’s growth. Regular trims help you maintain consistent growth and keep any kind of damage under control.


Recommended Hair Care Routine

  • Shampoo

    those with type 3b hair need wash their hair at least once or twice a week with a shampoo formulated for curly hair. it is important to only wash your hair when needed to prevent dryness and frizz caused by over washing.

  • Co-wash 

    Washing your hair too often can strip your hair of its natural oils, especially when using a harsh shampoo. Co-washing allows you to wash your hair enough to get any excess build-up out without drying out your hair with shampoo and ensuring extra-moisture.

  • Conditioner

    You need to condition your hair at least 2-3 times a week. When conditioning your hair, you need to make sure you use a conditioner that has both hydrating and moisturizing ingredients that are not going weigh your hair down and also introduce back into your hair to avoid frizz.

  • Leave-in conditioner

    Leave-in conditioners are a great way to keep your hair hydrated and moisturized. Which will leave your hair feeling light, bouncy and also keep your curls more defined while adding shine and elasticity.

  • Scrunch the curls

    Scrunching your curls is a great way to style your hair and adding definition to your curls without brushing, pulling and manipulating your hair. You can use hydrating serum or oil to add moisture into your hair.

  • Deep condition

    A deep conditioner's main function is to deeply hydrate and moisturize your hair all the way to the scalp using some sort of heat. You need to deep condition your hair at least once every week after shampooing for approximately 20-30 minutes.

  • Air Dry or Diffuse

    Excessive heat can lead to breakage for your already dry 3b hair. Air drying or diffusing your hair limits the use of heat and protects it from dryness and breakage.

  • Protect at Night

    Protecting your hair while you sleep is an important step to prevent dryness and frizz caused by friction as you toss and turn at night. You can secure your hair into a high bun(pineapple) with a silk scarf or scrunchie to avoid tangles. You can also switch out your cotton pillowcases for satin or silk pillowcases for extra protection.


Lifestyle Habits for Healthier Type 3B Hair

  • Eat healthy

A balanced diet focuses on eating whole, unprocessed foods and limiting added sugar, salt and unhealthy fats. Eating more plant-based foods, including fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grains, legumes, nuts and seeds is one way to get the vitamins and minerals your hair needs to look and feel its best. Many of the fruits and vegetables we eat contain antioxidants, which can help promote hair growth. Adding proteins like fish, chicken, beans and lentils to your regular diet is key for providing the body with essential fatty acids it needs for strong and shiny hair.




  • Drink water 

Drinking plenty of water and limiting your alcohol intake may also keep your hair healthy. Drinking enough water helps energize and support hair growth from root to tip and is vital for maintaining lush, thick hair. Water hydrates hair and provides essential minerals to hair follicles, creating an ideal environment for hair growth that results in healthier hair. Keeping your hair hydrated also reduces the risk of developing scalp issues such as dryness, itchiness and dandruff which helps prevent split ends and brittle hair.



  • Don’t smoke

It is said that smoking causes oxidative stress by increasing the production of free radicals in the body. Free radicals are molecules that react easily with other molecules in your system and can potentially cause damage to the DNA of your cells. It is found that cells in hair follicles in balding scalps are particularly sensitive to oxidative stress, that means regular smoking is likely to make your hair loss worse and speed up the balding process. Once you stop smoking, you can reverse any hair loss and help your hair grow back stronger and longer. 

  • Get enough sleep

Not getting enough sleep can weaken the hair follicles and affect the secretion of hormones. This can cause your hair to look weak, dry and dull.  Sleep deprivation disrupts the biological hair growth cycle and prematurely pushes follicles into the shedding phase. Aim for a good 7-9 hours of uninterrupted sleep each night to promote overall hair health. 



Bonus tip: invest in silk pillowcases or scarves to protect your hair while sleeping.  

  • Exercise 

Exercise increases circulation and oxygen in blood cells, which benefits hair follicles. This can allow the growth phase of hair to be longer. Exercise can also reduce stress, which is one of the factors involved in hair thinning. Though there is little research done to prove the effect of exercise on hair growth, it is safe to say that exercise will always have a positive effect on hair health because it has a positive effect on your overall health. 



  • Don’t skip scalp care

When it comes to healthy hair habits, people often make the mistake of focusing on the hair and forgetting the scalp, which is just as important for your overall hair health. A clean, hydrated, clear scalp is the gateway to healthy hair. To improve scalp health, exfoliate products that help clear debris, oils and dead skin cells. leave-in conditioners will hydrate, and hair serums will treat your hair. It is also good to invest in a good scalp massager to help boost blood circulation to the scalp and encourage new hair growth with a glossy look and feel. 

  • Sun protect your hair

Prolonged sun exposure can dry out and damage your hair. Make sure that you use hair and scalp products with UV protection or wear a hat when spending time outdoors. 

  • Invest in the right haircare

It is important to choose hair products that are suited for your hair type. Each hair type has different needs and using products that suit your hair type and porosity will help you create a simple hair care routine that caters to your hair’s unique needs. Curly hair like type 3b hair might need more creams and styling products to enhance curl patterns and reduce frizz. Curly hair is also known to need more moisture so investing in leave-in conditioners and curling creams might be what your hair needs. Once you have found the right products, remember that establishing a consistent hair care regime will be needed for healthy hair. 



  • Reduce stress

Minimizing stressors in your daily life is important for longer and thicker hair. Stress can affect the body immensely, including your hair. When your mind and body are stressed, energy is diverted from making lush, thick hair. Stress can also trigger telogen effluvium, a type of hair loss, so it is vital to reduce and manage stress better so that your hair can thrive.  


Conclusion

We hope this guide will be helpful as you try and create your own personal hair care routine that suits your particular hair. We just want you to always remember what a gift it truly is to have a beautiful head of hair and that when you start to cherish every single strand as it is, you will find it easier to care for it and be a good steward of what God has given you. The key to having great hair is gratitude and appreciation and all else will fall into place. Just learn and be patient with the journey.


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