The Comedogenic Scale for Oils and Butters: Understanding How Comedogenic Ratings Work.

Written by: Zenani Sizane

Have you ever used a skincare product that is popular and going viral because of its ability to heal skin and fight acne, only to discover that when you follow the trend, the product is having the exact opposite effect on you and making your acne worse? This may occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is that the product's specific ingredient may cause breakouts in you based on your skin type and surroundings. In this post, we will examine how some skincare ingredients can clog your pores and result in acne and other inflammatory breakouts by explaining what the comedogenic scale is and how to use it to predict which skincare ingredients are likely to cause acne. 

What is the comedogenic scale?

Everyone has different skin types and different skincare needs; therefore, every skin is different and will react differently to certain skincare products and ingredients. When dealing with skin care products, you will find many ingredients that can cause or exacerbate acne-prone skin. Any such ingredient that will “cause” acne is called "comedogenic,” which means that those who deal daily with acne-prone skin will stay far away from any ingredients that fall into this category.

Comedogenicity is a tendency for ingredients to clog your pores. Anything that disrupts the sebum outflow on your skin can lead to the formation of comedones (whiteheads). Comedones is a type of non-inflammatory acne and can further lead to the formation of inflammatory acne. 

An infection of the sebaceous glands causes acne, a skin condition characterized by red pimples around the affected area. A comedo is a highly dilated pore that is packed with sebum, dirt, and dead skin cells. It is the "hole" that surrounds a hair follicle, whether it has hair or not. When a comedo is closed (so the skin covers it), it can lead to inflammation, pimples, and whiteheads. If it is open, the pore will resemble a blackhead. It is the first step towards acne. 

An acnegenic ingredient can cause a general worsening of pre-existing acne (inflammation, redness, and itchiness). A comedogenic ingredient acts like glue on the skin’s surface: dead skin cells and excess sebum will stick together more and more, causing blackheads and whiteheads, not acne. 

The comedogenic scale is one way to navigate the spectrum of products and identify the ideal ones for you by learning about the components of the oils and how they differ. The comedogenic scale is ranked by how likely it is that any specific ingredients, such as oils and butters used in cosmetic product formulation, will clog pores. Anyone who is susceptible to acne breakouts and blackheads should avoid high-comedogenic oils, as they are likely to cause recurring acne problems, whereas people with drier skin might prefer to benefit from a more emollient oil, which will be more toward the middle of the scale.

The comedogenic scale is a five-point scale that tells you how comedogenic an ingredient is. Many factors are involved in how a particular oil impacts your skin, but there is no way to make an “absolute” prediction. The fact is that everyone’s skin is different, so an oil will impact different people in different ways. 

How do I use the comedogenic scale? 

All oils and butters contain various nutrients such as antioxidants, fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging qualities. Some even defend against ultraviolet rays. Each oil and butter provide unique nutritional properties. It all depends on your skin type; some people benefit more from highly rated oils than those with intermediate ratings. 

Knowing the comedogenic scale is just a technique for determining what products are appropriate for your skin type. To help you detect components in other products that may clog your pores. The comedogenic rating was developed because each chemical in cosmetics has a unique tendency to block pores. A comedogenic rating is a scale that indicates how probable a substance is to clog your pores. 

Before determining how comedogenic a substance is, we must evaluate numerous elements, such as its extraction procedure, formulation, and the quantity of the chemical present. In fact, when used in low concentrations, a highly comedogenic substance can be completely harmless to your skin. 

This rating does not imply that products containing ingredients with a high comedogenic rating (4-5), such as coconut oil or cocoa butter, will cause breakouts. Just because some oils are scored higher on the scale does not guarantee that they will clog your pores; there is a potential, but it is not 100% certain. Products with a low comedogenic grade of 0-2, while considered to be safe, might nonetheless cause acne. The easiest way to know for sure is to test your products and see what happens subsequently. Knowing your skin type can also help you identify the best non-comedogenic ingredients for you.  

It is essential to remember that the oil or product is not inherently harmful to your skin and should not be avoided totally; nonetheless, it is critical to understand which one will nourish your specific skin without clogging your pores. It is also crucial to note that, while we mostly refer to carrier oils, the comedogenic scale is intended to apply to a variety of compounds, including waxes, minerals, botanicals, and emulsifiers. 

An ingredient is deemed "non-comedogenic" if it has a comedogenic rating of 2 or less; if it has a comedogenic rating of 5 or more, it is likely to clog your pores and cause breakouts. It is always crucial to understand how an oil's concentration affects how a product performs. For example, coconut oil receives a lot of attention because it is a 4 on the scale, but only when utilized at 100%. However, coconut oil is frequently used in goods at a low percentage and then combined with other non-comedogenic oils to achieve a balance. 

Comedogenic Rating

0- won’t clog your pores at all

1: very low likelihood to clog pores

2: Moderately low likelihood

3-Moderate likelihood

4-fairly high likelihood

5-high likelihood of clogging pores

Botanical/Plant Oil	Comedogenic Rating
Abyssinian Oil	0-1
Acai Fruit Oil	2
Ahiflower Oil	1
Allanblackia Oil	n/a
Aloe Vera	0
Aloe Vera Gel	0
Amaranth Oil	2-3
Amla Oil	1
Andiroba Oil	2
Annato Oil	n/a
Apple Seed Oil	1
Apricot Kernel Oil	2
Arctic Cranberry Seed Oil	2
Argan Oil	0
Arugula Oil	n/a
Arnica Oil	2
Ascorbic Acid	0
Avellana Oil	1
Avocado Butter	2-3
Avocado Oil	2-3
Babassu Oil	1-2
Bacuri Oil	4
Balanites Oil	n/a
Baobab Oil	2
Basil Seed Oil	n/a
Beeswax	2
Behenic Acid	2
Beta-Carotene	1
BHA	2
Bitter gourd oil	n/a
Black Cumin Oil	2
Black Currant Seed Oil	1
Blackberry Seed Oil	1
Black Raspberry Seed Oil	1-2
Blueberry Seed Oil	0-1
Borage Seed Oil	2
Boysenberry Seed Oil	n/a
Brazil Nut Oil	2
Broccoli Seed Oil	1
Buah Merah Oil	4
Buriti Oil	2
Cabbage Seed Oil	1
Cacay Seed Oil	1-2
Calabash Seed Oil	n/a
Calendula Seed Oil	1
Calamus Oil1	Essential Oil
Camelina Seed Oil	3-4
Camellia seed oil	1
Camphor Oil	2
Candelila Wax	1
Carrageen	5
Carrot Seed Oil	3-4
Carnauba Wax	1
Cashew Nut Oil	1
Castor Oil	1
Cetearyl Alcohol	2
Cetyl Alcohol	3
Chaulmoogra Oil	1
Cherry Kernel Oil	2
Cherry Seed Oil	2
Chia Seed Oil	3
Chilean Hazelnut Oil	1
Chilly Seed Oil	essential oil
Chokeberry Seed Oil	1-2
Chufa Seed Oil	n/a
Cloudberry Seed Oil	1
Coconut Butter	4
Coconut Oil	4
Cocoa Butter	4
Coffee Seed Oil	2
Coriander Seed Oil	3-4
Corn Oil	3
Cottonseed Oil	3
Cranberry Seed Oil	2
Cucumber Seed Oil	1
Cupuacu Butter	4
Custard Apple Seed Oil	n/a
Daikon Radish Seed Oil	1
Date Seed Oil	3
Dimethicone	1
Dhupa Seed Oil	n/an
Dragon Fruit Oil	1
Echium Seed Oil	1-2
Elderberry Seed Oil	1-2
Emu Oil	1
Emulsifying Wax NF	0-2
Evening Primrose Oil	2-3
Fenugreek Oil	n/a
Fig Seed Oil	1n/a
Flaxseed Oil	4
Goji Seed Oil	0-1
Grapefruit Seed Oil	2
Grapeseed Oil	1
Gromwell Root Oil	essential oil
Guanabana Oil	n/a
Guava Seed Oil	1
Hazelnut Oil	1
Hemp Seed Oil	0
Hibiscus Seed Oil	1-2
Hinoki Oil	essential oil
Illipe Butter	2
Jatropa Seed Oil	n/a
Jojoba Oil	2
Kamala Seed Oil	n/a
Kaolin Clay	0
Kapok Oil	n/a
Karanj Oil	2
Karkar Oil	n/a
Kigelia Africana Seed Oil	2
Kiwi Seed Oil	1
Kokum butter	0-1
Kombo Butter	n/a
Kpangnan Butter	1-2
Kukui Nut Oil	2
Kusum Oil	n/a
Lanolin Oil	2
Laurel Berry Oil	n/a
Lettuce Seed Oil	n/a
Licuri Oil	n/a
Lime Seed Oil	n/a
Lingonberry Oil	n/a
Loofah Seed Oil	1
Lunaria Seed Oil	n/a
Macadamia Nut Oil	2-3
Macauba Seed Oil	n/a
Mafura Butter	2-3
Mahlab Oil	n/a
Mahua Seed Oil	n/a
Mango Butter	2
Mango Seed Oil	2
Mangosteen Oil	0-1
Manketti Oil	0-1
Maqui Berry Oil	n/a
Marroti Oil	n/a
Marula Oil	3-4
Meadowfoam Seed Oil	1
Milk Thistle Seed Oil	1
Monoi Oil	n/a
Moringa Oil	3-4
Mobola Plum Oil	n/a
Mowrah Butter	n/a
Murumuru Butter	2-3
Mustard Seed Oil	2-3
Neem Oil	2
Niger Seed Oil	n/a
Noni Seed Oil	n/a
Oat Seed Oil	1-2
Oiticica Oil	n/a
Ojon Oil	n/a
Okra Seed Oil	n/a
Olive Oil	2
Palash Seed Oil	n/a
Palm Kernel Oil	4
Palm Oil	4
Pastel Seed Oil	n/a
Papaya Seed Oil	2-3
Parsley Seed Oil	n/a
Passionfruit Seed Oil	1-2
Pitaya Seed Oil	n/a
Peach Kernel Oil	2
Peanut Oil	2
Pear Seed Oil	n/a
Pecan Oil	2
Peony Seed Oil	n/a
Pequi Seed Oil	3
Perilla Seed Oil	1-2
Pilu Oil	n/a
Pine Nut Oil	2
Pisa Oil	n/a
Pistachio Nut Oil	n/a
Plum Kernel Oil	1-2
Pomegranate Seed Oil	1
Pomifera Seed Oil	n/a
Poppy Seed Oil	1
Praxaci Oil	3
Prickly Pear Seed Oil	1-2
Pumpkin Seed Oil	2
Quinoa Seed Oil	n/a
Ramtil Oil	n/a
Rapeseed Oil	4
Rhatany Oil	n/a
Red Raspberry Seed Oil	1
Rice Bran Oil	2
Rosehip Seed Oil	1
Rubber Seed Oil	n/a
Sacha Inchi Oil	0-1
Safflower Oil	0
Sal Butter	4
Sandalwood seed Oil	2
Saw Palmetto Oil	n/a
Sapote Oil	2-3
Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil	2
Sea Buckthorn Kernel Oil	1
Sesame Seed Oil	3
Sisymbrium oil	n/a
Shea Butter	0-2
Shea Butter var nilotica	2-3
Shea Oil	0-2
Shikonin Seed Oil	n/a
Sorghum Oil	n/a
Souchet Oil	n/a
Soursop Oil	n/a
Soybean Oil	4-5
Squalane	0-1
Squalene	1
Strawberry Seed Oil	1
Sunflower Oil	2
Sunflower Seed Oil	2
Sweet Almond Oil	2
Tallow	2
Tamanu Oil	2
Tamarind Seed Oil	n/a
Taramira Seed Oil	essential oil
Thumba Seed Oil	n/a
Tobacco Seed Oil	n/a
Tocopherol(Vitamin E)	2
Tomato Seed Oil	0-2
Touloucouna Oil	n/a
Tucuma Butter	4
Tucuma Oil	3-4
Tung Oil	n/a
Ucuuba Butter	4
Walnut Oil	1-2
Watermelon Seed Oil	0-1
Wheat Germ Oil	5
Wolfsberry Oil	n/a
Ximenia Oil	0-2
Yangu Oil	n/a

The Accuracy of the Comedogenic Scale.  

*Disclaimer: Healthy Together does not condone or support animal testing or cruelty. The studies given below are for research and information reasons only and are based on how the comedogenic scale research was conducted by another institution. We do not condone or advocate animal cruelty.

As mentioned throughout this article, the comedogenic scale cannot be trusted 100% because of several factors, such as skin types, inaccurate testing, different people, and the environment.

The goal of the comedogenic scale was to provide individuals with a list or guidance of "acne-causing ingredients" to avoid, but this was not the case with the specific test that was performed. There are numerous inconsistencies in assessing the comedogenicity of a given substance. The test was performed on a rabbit's ear; the ingredient was applied to the rabbit's inner ear every day for a week, and after three weeks, the scientist looked for imperfections and determined where the substance fell on the scale (0–5). 

Similar treatment would also be meted out to humans, except that they would have stripes on their backs rather than on their ears. The results of the human test would sometimes take up to six months to be determined. These studies' findings were discovered to be erratic and dispersed, with one study demonstrating that an ingredient with a high comedogenicity would become non-comedogenic when diluted in product formulations. A different study revealed that ingredients that were clogging rabbits' arteries did not always have the same effect on humans. 

Additionally, it was discovered that if the sunscreen's "active" ingredients were non-comedogenic but the product as a whole was, the "inactive" ingredients would be at fault. Another study discovered that a product can still cause skin irritation, which leads to acne, even though it is non-comedogenic. It is safe to state that, even if one were to fully trust the scale, the results of all the research appear to contradict one another and are not significant enough to provide accurate and pertinent information about an ingredient's comedogenic potential.

 When thinking about oils, it is crucial to remember that natural oils are a particular kind of ingredient that is frequently thought to have some capacity to clog pores. It is crucial to remember that processing methods play a significant role in determining which oils clog pores. Your skin's reaction to the oil can be influenced by both the refined process of making oils and the quality of the original plant material. Because they are highly refined to make them clear and odorless, the majority of oils used in the cosmetics industry are less stable and more likely to go rancid. Refined oils have lost most of their antioxidants and are lower in natural nutrients. As a result, they are more likely to form a sticky, rancid film on the skin that clogs pores and increases inflammation. 

It is recommended that you test the products on your own. As mentioned, everyone has a different skin chemistry, type, and environment they deal with every day, so only you can tell how a product works for your skin and if it is safe to use for your particular skin type. 

It is possible that ingredients that have been tested and found to be safe in terms of comedogenicity will work just fine, but the same ingredients from a different location may have completely different effects. There is not a definitive response. Because the term "non-comedogenic" is not regulated by the FDA, most companies that label their products as such are probably doing so for marketing purposes, even if you trusted the scale.

References:

Understanding the Comedogenic Scale for Oils and Butters (herbaldynamicsbeauty.com)

What is comedogenic rating – FWBEAUTY

Comedogenic Scale For Your Skin Type — Woman With Mind

Oils and Butters for Your Skin: The Comedogenic Scale – Infinity Soap Company

https://skinkraft.com/blogs/articles/how-to-use-non-comedogenic-oils-for-face-and-skin